the sweetest thing: biscotti quadrati al miele e alle noci (honey caramel nut squares)

I cannot accept full credit for these cookies. You see these nutty and caramel-laden confections were the collaborative effort – both in conceptualization and materialization – of contributors other than just Moi.  Last week they were but an open ended question; the type that begins the moment you peel back the crackling cover of a new cookbook, a wealth of new culinary possibilities before you, and say “Now what should I make….?”

In my case, the precursor to this cookie was receiving a freshly pressed copy of Gourmet’s Cookie Book, which contains the single best cookie recipe from each of the (now defunct, sob) publication’s 68 years in existence.  Being that I lack a doorman, I have all of my packages sent to work; and being that I lack patience, I immediately tear them open to inspect their contents upon their (very exciting) arrival at my desk.  This lack of self-control in turn leaves my parcels up for scrutiny by my snoopy – yet lovable – neighbor, and due for some inevitable commentary and inquiry on their stuffing.

I relinquished my cookie book to said neighbor as I balled up the sticky packing tape, and gave him full directorial privileges in selecting the cookie recipe that he deemed the most delicious sounding.  In return for his undoubtably dubious selection, I promised I would make the cookies over the weekend and return Monday with his treats.  He dog-eared the benne wafers and tagged doughy chocolate thumbprints.  He marked off some hazelnut brownies and book-marked jammy cookie sandwiches.  Finally, after much debate, he settled upon “Biscotti Quadrati al Miele e alle Noci,” or “Honey Nut Cookies,” for those not versed in Italian

(….raises hand sheepishly.)

With the basics already residing in my pantry, I gathered up the hazelnuts, almonds, and pine nuts the recipe called for, and decided I would throw in a few cashews just because I’m rebellious like that.  I was just setting out my ingredients when I heard the world’s tiniest knock at my door, and found my too-adorable-for-words five year old neighbor standing on my welcome mat wondering if she could possibly come in and make some cookies too?

But of course!

So we pulled up a chair and poured some apple juice, and made what I think to be some of the most killer cookies I’ve turned out to date.  They are sweet and decadent, but manage to do so without being cloying or overkill, which I feel so many cookies can be.  The shortcake is buttery and crumbly, and the caramel has a rich earthiness from using honey instead of the more traditional white sugar.  The the nuts retain their crispness and suspend themselves majestically in the thin glossy blanket of the tawny caramel. Cut into 1” squares, these are ideal for sharing and keep incredibly well when separated with parchment in airtight containers.

These cookies are a bit old fashioned sounding I realize – they do not rely on the glaring usual modern trappings like chocolate chunks, gobs of peanut butter, or fancy cream fillings – but I promise you they are absolutely delicious and will become a fast favorite.  My work-neighbor had two before our 7:10am meeting, and the five year old squealed in delight – what could be better?

Biscotti Quadrati al Miele e alle Noci (Honey Caramel Nut Squares)
Adapted from The Gourmet Cookie Book (Originally printed in March 2003)

These are soooo addictive.  The glossy and sweet caramel layer sort of settles into the top of the shortbread crust creating a soft cushion for the nuts. Sprinkling the entire lot with a light and flaky sea salt is what I think really pushes these over the edge – it wasn’t called for in the recipe, but it was what each person who sampled them went over the moon for. I used Maldon, and you can find it in specialty food stores or here.

The original recipe called for ¾ cup hazelnuts and no cashews, but I had cashews on hand and thought that they would make a nice addition.  I dialed the hazelnuts back to ½ cup and added in a ½ cup of cashews – it was perfect.

crust:
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 stick (1/2 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 large egg, lightly beaten

topping:
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon mild honey
1/4 cup packed light brown sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 tablespoon heavy cream
1/2 cup whole almonds with skins
½ cup cashews
½ cup hazelnuts toasted and loose skins rubbed off
1/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted (I did this in a dry pan over medium heat, ~10 minutes)
2 tsp light & flaky sea salt (such as maldon)

equipment:
9×9 square baking dish (I used glass Pyrex brand one)

Make crust:
Preheat the oven to 375.

Butter a 9-inch square metal (I used glass) baking pan (at least 2 inches deep) and line with 2 crisscrossed sheets of foil, leaving a 2-inch overhang on all sides. Butter the inside of the foil.

In a large bowl, blend together the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and butter with your fingertips or a pastry blender until most of the mixture resembles coarse meal with small (roughly pea-size) butter lumps.  At this point the dough will be dry and very floury looking – that is just fine.

Add the egg and stir with a fork until a crumbly dough forms.
Turn the dough out onto a work surface and divide it into 4 portions. Using the heel of your hand, smear each portion a couple of times in a forward motion against the counter to help squish the pea-sized bits of butter and distribute the fat. Gather dough together in a rough ball.

Turn the rough ball out into the baking dish, and press it evenly into the bottom (but not up the sides). Bake on the middle of the oven for 15-20 minutes, until the edges are golden (the sides may pull slightly away from the pan, which is fine). Cool the crust in pan on a cooling rack.

When the crust is cool, make the topping. Bring the honey, brown sugar, and salt to a boil in a 2-quart heavy saucepan over moderately high heat, stirring until sugar is dissolved and the mixture starts to boil. Once the sugar is dissolved and the mixture is just boiling, let boil without stirring for 2 minutes. After 2 minutes, add the butter and cream and continue to boil, while constantly stirring, 1 minute more. Remove from the heat and stir in all nuts until they are completely coated.

Pour the caramel-nut mixture over the baked pastry crust, spreading it evenly, and bake in middle of the oven (375F) until topping is caramelized and bubbling, 12 to 15 minutes. Sprinkle the cookies liberally with sea salt, about 1 Tbsp, so you can see flecks of the salt resting on the caramel covered nuts. Cool the cookies completely in pan on a rack. Lift the square out of pan using the foil overhang, and using a very sharp knife cut into 25 squares.

Cookies will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for 1 week.  Layer them between sheets of parchment or wax paper to prevent sticking.