Each and every year there is that moment that comes, even if its before it’s true time, where you step outside to find that the humidity has been replaced by a measured crispness and the heat with a slight chill. It’s usually sometime right in early September, when you know you can’t quite be out of Summer’s grip just yet – there surely will still be a few days where the mercury will slide back up into the 80s and your hand will gravitate to the AC dial as soon as you slip into your car. But for at least that one precious day you find yourself revelling in the coolness and suddenly gushing about things like boots and tights and pea coats and pumpkin lattes and fuzzy scarves – things that last spring you were positively giddy to rid yourself of.
Out in Colorado I was ready to have this feeling much sooner than New York, and on a much more intense scale. I was bracing myself for the cold to come on fast and come on strong; to arrive before I was ready to say goodbye to the warm dusky nights and bright red morning skies. I must admit though – so far, I am insanely impressed with what my new little (big) square state is bringing to the table.
The mornings here lately have been cool – cold even; yesterday a thin film of frost-bitten dew coated the deck to immediately (and hilariously) sweep the puglet’s feet out from under her tiny body and sent her flopping about like Bambi. But by noon I had on an old tee and yoga pants for a sun flooded hike up through Chautauqua, and I could feel the strength of the sun embracing me through the thin cotton. Here so far its been less about getting cold and staying that way; it’s been more about dropping down at night just enough to send you scurrying for socks and a fuzzy blanket, but warming back up into the 70s during the day to toast your cheeks a gentle shade of fall pink if you dare fall asleep during an afternoon laze next to the creek. (I dared.)
The rotation in the front of the markets assures me that at this point, in fact, we are a bit beyond that point of ‘is it really getting cooler yet?’ The heirloom tomatoes are down to a few last scraggly late bloomers and the berries have become scarcer, and surely are not local. Muscling their way to the front of the pack are the pumpkins, the squash, the brussels sprouts (!), and the wintry greens, ready to assume their positions in key roles in all of the delicious and comforting dishes that define exactly what it means to be in the throes of Fall.
As much as I will yearn for sweet corn or summer squash in a few months, for now I am happy to bask in the comforting glow of these newcomers. Sweet potatoes are a staple side dish in our house when the chill sets in, and this year looks to be no different – I can’t help but toss three or four of them in my bag at the market, knowing that they’ll instantly cozy-fy anything I put them up against. This rendition of a potato hash has all of the textures and flavors in it that define fall for me: salty, sweet, with a bit of bright crunch, and a soft backdrop. Here, roasted chunks of sweet potato are tossed into a skillet with kale that’s been sauteed in bacon fat and sweet maple syrup, before taking in a sprinkle of bright and savory sage. It is a perfect way to change up your usual sweet potato dish at Thanksgiving, but is also is simple enough to make on a weekly basis – and after the busy fall we have had, simplicity is keywith us lately.
Sweet Potato and Kale Hash with Lardons and Sage
Serves 4 as a side
This is particularly good as a side with roasted chicken or pork tenderloin – the flavors in the hash are bold and bright and I think they accentuate both meats really well. This would also be a fantastic winter breakfast dish, topped with a couple of poached eggs.
3 large sweet potatoes
1 head of kale (I prefer black or lacinto kale)
4 slices thick cut bacon*
1 clove garlic, minced
3 Tbsp maple syrup**
3 Tbsp chopped sage (about 10 leaves)
sea salt & fresh ground pepper
olive oil
Preheat the oven to 425F. Cut the sweet potatoes into uniform sized chunks, about ½ to ¾ inches in size. Spread the potatoes out on a baking sheet (use two if they do not fit without overlapping), and coat lightly with olive oil, about 2 Tbsp. Season the chunks well with salt & fresh ground pepper. Roast the potatoes until they are just barely soft all the way through, about 15 minutes; they will continue to cook a bit when you add them to the pan in just a few minutes.
Slice the bacon into thin strips on the bias (lardons); they should be about ⅛ inch thick. Heat a skillet over medium high heat, and fry the bacon until it is crisp. While the bacon cooks, cut the tough inner spine out of all of the kale leaves. Roll the kale in your hand, and roughly chop it. When the bacon is crisped, lower the heat to medium low, and remove the cooked bacon strips with a slotted spoon.
Add the kale and garlic into the pan with the bacon drippings and saute gently over medium low heat, being careful not to burn the garlic. Saute the kale until it is wilted, about 3 minutes. Add the roasted potato cubes and cooked bacon back into the pan with the kale. Drizzle in the maple syrup, and stir to coat. Cook over medium heat to meld the flavors and warm the potatoes through, stirring gently, for 1 – 2 minutes. Taste to check for seasoning and to ensure the potatoes are cooked through; the bacon is inherently salty and since you already salted the potatoes, you may not need to add more. Adjust seasoning accordingly. Stir in the chopped sage, and take off the heat.
Try to resist eating it all before serving to your guests. Serve immediately, and while still warm.
*If you can find the thick cut bacon behind your deli counter use this kind; it is a much higher quality and will inherently be thicker and more well-spiced. Whole Foods always carries a few varieties; go for the standard hickory smoked version.
**Must be the real kind….don’t even think about the fake stuff.
E A T & R E L I S H 