I’ve bemoaned the fact before that occasionally I have a bit of an unfortunate tendency to fall back on my old friend the potato. By unfortunate, however, I do not mean that I hold the potato in anything but the highest regard, but instead that I tend to always gravitate towards it whenever I’m at loss for a tasty and uncomplicated side dish. The roast variety with a salty and crisp skinned chicken? Yes please. Mashed up to accompany that juicy medium-rare steak?
But of course.
And might I add that the only reason I would ever say ‘bemoan‘ is that these days the poor spud has managed to accumulate himself a bit of a bad rap. In the recent dark ages of low-carb everything, the potato in all of his white starchy glory has not always been shed in the most favorable light.
But then again, there is the sweet potato – the white potatoes much less sinister pink fleshed cousin who reliably has the ability to swoop in and recalculate that nutritional game of ill repute. White potatoes on the side? Gratuitous and not so healthy….but sweet potatoes on the side? Supermodel approved.
Whatever. Honestly I like my potatoes both ways, but despite the fact they are better for you, I have always favored the sweet potato as I find them more interesting. They have a heartier texture, seem to stand up better to different preparations than the white guys (potato racist who?), and look prettier on the plate, to boot. The hasselback potato is something I saw everywhere last year, and though I didn’t really suspect that it would taste much different than simply roasting the spud, the pretty fanned out shape and easy to eat slices appealed to me. I saw a version of these lovely potatoes over on Joy’s blog, and though I had seen the idea before, I was instantly smitten with her idea of using a pesto as a topper.
I knew I wanted to make a sweet ‘tater version, and though pesto with white potatoes sounds like peas’n’carrots, I wasn’t sure how it would go with the bolder flavor. After some poking around Whole Foods I saw a pile of white sweet potatoes, and was intrigued – I had never tried a ‘white’ sweet potato before, but figured that if anything maybe the flavor would be milder, and work even better.
I am so glad I found them. As soon as you slice into them you know you have a sweet potato – despite the lack of pink skin and besides their telltale torpedo-like shape, you can smell that familiar earthy aroma that only the sweet kind has. The flesh is creamy and white (not unlike a yukon gold), but other than that it is just like the sweet potato we are used to – firmer and with less moisture in the flesh than the usual white potato. Once cooked the flavor is very much like a traditional sweet potato, just slightly muted and somehow a bit more sweet, making in an excellent base for strongly flavored toppings.
These were absolutely perfect, and have earned a spot in our regular dinner rotation. The cuts in the potato allow you to easily slice off each bite with a fork, rather than fussing to cut off steaming hot bites with a knife as with a normal baked potato. The bright cilantro basil pesto was absolutely delicious draped over the top; it ran into all of the accordion-ed slices and and there was a bit of that light garlicky-herb flavor in each sweet and tender bite. James, ever the perennial potato non-enthusiast, even declared these to be the best potatoes he’s ever had. (Score!).
The great thing about these is their versatility; you can swap in regular white or sweet potatoes for the white kind, and switch the pesto for almost anything – turkey chili (hello end of football season), lemon spiked greek yogurt, or even just an extra smattering of olive oil and salt. Though I am currently only a mother to one pug who does not discriminate against the toppings of her potato, these strike me as a perfect side dish for a family with a few wee picky eaters – the customization of different potatoes would be painless.
On top of being easy to prepare, I love the individual presentation they give and think they would be perfect for a dinner party. It’s no harder to roast up 6 potatoes than it is two, and I just adore things that look specially crafted where each guest gets their own. Honestly these are the best potatoes I’ve had in a long time (the last I had that really blew me away were these), and they are a perfect and healthy bright spot on the plate for this chilly and still dark time of year.
Hasselback White Sweet Potatoes with Cilantro Basil Pesto
Serves 4
Inspired by many sources, namely Joy The Baker
The pesto here is thicker than one that you might make for a pasta; feel free to add more olive oil until the consistency is to your liking, however I prefer it this way to ensure that it doesn’t run over off the potatoes and on to the plate.
4 white sweet potatoes
olive oil
sea salt
2 Tbsp unsalted butter
pesto
1 cup cilantro leaves
1 cup basil leaves
1 clove garlic, peeled
1/2 cup pine nuts
1/4 cup olive oil, + additional as needed
small piece of fresh parmesan, grated (about 1/4 – 1/2 cup grated)
zest of one lemon
sea salt to taste
tools – chopsticks (optional)
Preheat the oven to 425F. Scrub each sweet potato and cut off any bruised or dark bits. Slice off a small bit of one side of the potato, so that it will lay flat on the counter when you slice it into it’s accordion shape. Using a very sharp knife, make vertical cuts into the potato about 1/8″ apart, without going all the way through, using chopsticks to steady the potato and help from cutting to the bottom (see photos above).
When the potatoes are cut, using your hands, coat each potato in a thin layer of olive oil. Place the potatoes cut side up in a small baking dish, and sprinkle them liberally with sea salt. Roast in the oven for 40-45 minutes, depending on the size of your potato, until they are tender all the way through when pricked with a knife. (If your potatoes are browning too much before they are tender, simply tent them with foil. If you find your potatoes are still tough after 45 minutes when pricked, keep roasting in 5-10 minute increments until they are tender).
While the potatoes roast, make the pesto. In a blender or food processor (I used a Vitamix), place the pine nuts, garlic, cilantro, basil, and lemon zest. Pulse just until the ingredients are lightly chopped and combined, and then with the processor or blender running, add the olive oil slowly in a stream. Pulse again to ensure all ingredients are combined; you should have a bright green mixture that is smooth and thick. (Add more olive oil as needed if your pesto is too thick or is not coming together in a smooth sauce, 1 Tbsp at a time). Taste, and add sea salt to your liking (I add quite a bit here).
When the potatoes are tender, remove them from the oven. Top each potato with 1/2 Tbsp of the butter, dotting it along the top. Place back in the oven for 5 minutes, to melt the butter and crisp up the skin.
To serve, top each potato with the pesto mixture, dividing it equally among the potatoes, or serving each with a couple of spoonfuls and saving the rest (pesto will keep in the fridge for 5 days, covered).
Serve immediately.
E A T & R E L I S H 